Friday, 26 November 2010

Leaving.

I'm sorry this is so long, but I need to say everything and I don't want to come back without people knowing what has gone on here.


It seems like an age ago when I first learned about Project Trust. It was just before the summer of 2009 , an ex volunteer came round to our school and gave a small presentation to the year group. She showed us PT's promotional video and at that moment I was sold. To me PT offered exactly what I was looking for. A meaningful year out of formal education in an exotic country doing something I loved. The video features an interview with a volunteer just back from Outward Bound Hong Kong. He talks about the amazing time he's had and all the brilliant things he's done. He says he had received training throughout the year and by the end was working full time as an instructor, leading sailing, kayaking and hiking courses. He said he was working with young disabled and disadvantaged kids. It was at that moment completely certain thats what I wanted to do with my year.

The 5 day selection course on Coll not only confirmed my decision, but built my enthusiasm, excitement and expectations sky high. I had an amazing week on selection. I met some fantastic people and made some new friends, visited a truly beautiful and stunning island and realised what lay ahead. I was convinced I was going to have the year of my life, and if my year had gone anything like selection had gone then I would have. I completely trusted PT and there was no doubt in my mind that they would organise a fantastic project for me. They came across as a very well organised and very friendly group of people. I trusted completely that I was in good hands with them and that they would have a very well organised and supported gap year for us.

After my place was confirmed I, like all PT volunteers began fundraising. I wrote off hundreds of letters to charities across the UK explaining what I was doing and requesting they support me. I told them that I would not only be learning a great deal about life and how to look after myself, but that I would also be benefiting people in Hong Kong. I was told by PT that at OBHK I would be helping disabled and disadvantaged kids on courses, this was one of the main points under which I fundraised. I received a great deal of the 4850 pounds from charities and even more from friends and family. I ran two fundraising events, one of which raised me 2000 pounds. The rest of the money was paid by me. I worked all season at Port Edgar and almost all that I earned went to PT to pay off the final amount.

Working at Port Edgar seemed as well a perfect way to raise the final money and to spend my last summer before departure. Now looking back on it though Port Edgar may have been a bad thing, if only because it grew my confidence even higher. From day one there I was treated with respect. I was an instructor and and equal member of staff. My skills were respected and even celebrated. I was given responsibility and in return I gave maturity and gave the job all my effort and enthusiasm. I loved it. Of course there were bad days, there were bad jobs to do, but the good times more than made up for it. Of course, I was payed a very good wage for my age which did help also. At Port Edgar I had a couple of serious moments, but these only further boosted my confidence and self esteem. I saved a student who was trapped under an upturned catamaran, and managed to keep my calm and distract my kids when a suicide jumper fell from the bridge nearby. By the end of my time at Port Edgar my confidence was at an all time high. It was probably the happiest time of my life, I felt like I could do anything and be whatever I wanted to be. Ahead of me was this fantastic opportunity, and never for one moment did I think it would turn out the way it has. I was ready to grasp it with both hands, and to give my all to make this the best year of my life. I think leaving behind friends and family is always hard, but for this I knew it's what I wanted to do. I knew I was ready to leave and ready to be myself and live on my own.

Training was the first indication that all would not go to plan. The first thing we were told once we arrived was that we needed to go and see John as soon as possible in a rather dramatic voice. He explained that things at OBHK had changed and that we would no longer be able to instruct. That due to an incident in the spring they had reviewed their safety policies and no-one under 21 would be allowed to instruct. He had received an updated job description from the staff manager Lars which gave a rather vague indication of what we would be doing when we got here. At this point we were asked to decide whether or not we would still like to go through with the project or if we would like to transfer to another. Unfortunately there were no other options at Outward Bound schools, and none that really fitted what I had signed up for. I was left with a choice, go ahead with a project that we were a little unsure of or give up on Project Trust altogether. By this stage it was only 4 weeks before departure and I had already raised most of my money. I had spent the last year preparing for going to Hong Kong, getting exited. I had spent countless hours on the computer and reading guidebooks about Hong Kong and by this stage my heart really was set on coming here. All in all I don't think I really had much of a choice. By that stage I had committed. So I bit my lip and said what I had to.

The other half of training was spent meeting my partner for going oversees. All in all PT did a brilliant job in pairing Sean and I. I couldn't really have asked for someone better and through all that has happened we have become great friends. We have shared some amazing experiences together and I really hope once this is all over we can still keep in touch.

A week before departure I received an urgent phone call from my PT desk officer Nadia to say that she had just realised I hadn't sent in my hepatitis B vaccination certificate. I had been to the doctor several months previously to get advice on all the vaccinations I would need for coming here. At the time he told me that I would not need hepatitis B, I trusted his judgement and left it at that. This would prove to be a fatal mistake. I then spent the last week before departure getting a rushed course of the vaccination to get me ready for leaving. I was not told at any point that the vaccination was for my visa, and I was still under the impression that everything relating to my visa was in hand. I assumed that the vaccination was a requirement of OBHK and that it was unrelated to the visa application. In some ways I blame myself for being too trusting. At this stage I still trusted that Project Trust would have everything under control and that it would have no consequences on the rest of my year. I was also wrong to trust my doctor, but at the time it just seemed natural to trust his judgement on all maters relating to my vaccinations. Even by departure I still had no idea there would be any problems.

So together Sean and I set off for Hong Kong. I felt a mix of terror and excitement as I left the UK. I was so scared about leaving everyone and everything I loved behind. But so exited about finally doing what I had spent so much of the last year planning and obsessing over. Our first day at OBHK wasn't exactly a great indication of things to come. I remember the very first thing that happened was that we were shouted at for wearing flip flops, which I now know is against OBHK rules. It wasn't exactly the best way of explaining it to us though. We spent the first half hour at OB waiting around for Lars to come and greet us. Little did we know this would be the first of hundreds of half hours we would spend sitting around waiting for things to happen here. Lars took us to see Ivan, who was responsible for sorting out our visas. He gave us the next bombshell. He said that they hadn't even applied for our visas yet, and that he might be able to send it off in the next few days. He told us that it normally takes a month for visa applications to be processed, and that we wouldn't be able to work or do any training until they arrived.

At the time I don't think the consequences of this quite hit me. I was just so overwhelmed with arriving in this new amazing city and I just wanted to get out and explore it. In some ways I was happy that we would get time to do just that. After a few weeks though it started to get a bit ridiculous. We were very quickly burning through money, and although we were doing some awesome things and having some amazing experiences much of the time we had nothing to do and were just sitting around passing the time. I also didn't expect that we wouldn't receive our allowance for this first month. As I understood it we would be payed a $2000 per month Stipend that would help to cover our living expenses. I didn't think, and still don't think that a stipend is dependant on whether or not you work. At the time I was furious that we weren't being payed, but both OB and PT refused to pay us.

Now I didn't come here for the money. I could get payed more in two days at Port Edgar than I get in a month here. But I at least expect to have enough money to feed myself and occasionally enjoy a night out.

My argument was that firstly the delay in the visas wasn't my fault, that I was given advice by my doctor that I wouldn't need this vaccination, and that if it was so crucial PT should have picked up on it before a week prior to departure. Lars later said in a meeting that OB expected all the documentation including out vaccination record in by March, so it seems ridiculous to me that I would only be told there was a problem in the last week of August. The other argument I used was that even if it was my fault that I didn't get my vaccination in time no-one told us that this would lead to a delay in the visa. If at any point someone from OB or PT had gone to the trouble of properly explaining what was happening to me I would have told them not to send me out so early. I would never have chosen to come out here and have a months unpaid holiday using up almost half the money I had saved for travelling at the end of my year. All in all I think this whole problem can be put down to a complete lack of communication between OB and PT. Nadia later revealed that PT had been unaware we didn't have visas until the day before our departure. At no point have I received and apology for this cock up from either PT or OB. Although blame for this can be placed on all three sides I have to point my finger at Project Trust. Ultimately it is they who are responsible for sorting out my visas and making sure everything is properly prepared for my departure. I have fundraised a vast amount of money for them to get these things right and they managed to make a complete disaster out of it. If I had wanted a months holiday in Hong Kong I could have arranged it myself, and for considerably less money. I don't agree for a second that Project Trust are not responsible if Outward Bound didn't tell them there was a problem, PT should have been on top of this and should have checked that everything was in order before our departure.

Anyhoo, I hoped that this would be the last of our troubles, but when our visas did finally come through the argument about our stipend was still raging and both Sean and I had run out of money. To activate Hong Kong work visas you must leave the country and then return, to do this we would have to go to Macau, an hours ferry journey away. At the time we said that we could not afford to go to Macau until we got payed. Lars said that he would give us the money from his own pocket and that we could pay him back when the dispute was resolved. We didn't accept as it wasn't really a solution to our problem. I wanted the whole pay situation to resolved properly by Project Trust and for us to receive the money I still feel we are owed. Lars later said this amounted to us refusing to work, and blamed this for some of the problems we've been having at work. I don't feel Project Trust or Lars were particularly good at resolving this situation, Lars seemed to show none of the sensitivity or compassion I would expect from our host and staff manager and Project Trust just seemed more intent on blaming us for the problem than actually doing their job and sorting it out. Eventually PT agreed to reimburse us for the cost of the ferry. This seems like a bit of a pointless gesture considering the ferry was only $300 and I believe we are owed $2800. And so it continues...

These two problems formed the complete disaster that was the first month of our project.

This was only the beginning though. We were then thrown straight into working on courses without any training relating to the work we were doing. We were placed with other international instructors. Unfortunately no one had gone to the trouble of explaining our situation to them. They didn't have a clue what we allowed to or capable of doing. This at times led to a lot of friction between us and some of the staff we were working with. Also as we had not received any training or observed any courses we didn't really have a clue what was going on for the first few courses. No one had explained to us either exactly what we were allowed to do. I don't mind being thrown in at the deep end sometimes, but when it ruins my reputation, creates a mountain of extra work for the already overworked other instructor and directly affects the quality of the course it is not appropriate or beneficial. Over the last few weeks we have learned how to do much of the job ourselves. But there are still tonnes of things we are not allowed to do.

We are not allowed to participate in any water activities unless there are less than 12 kids in our group (which only very rarely happens). So from the step down at training saying we would not be trained as instructors it was another huge slap in the face to be told we would not be allowed to do water activities even as an observer. In practice what this means is that we meet our new group on the monday and spend the first day or two getting to know them. Generally at this point we have some respect from the kids. Then we spend the next two days of the course folding leaflets or something while they all go out and enjoy the water activities. Not only is it a huge disappointment for us not being able to take part in the water sessions, but it is also quite embarrassing. The kids ask us why we are not allowed to go out and it's hard to know what to say.

So to address some of these issues we arranged to have a meeting with Lars, and Project Trust agreed to send our oversees rep Polly. In this meeting and the follow up meeting a week later it was explained to us a bit more about what our situation is and what might happen over the rest of the year. It was made perfectly clear to us that there would be no development in our role here and we would not earn any more responsibility or respect as the year progresses. The main issue discussed was acting as observers during water sessions. Although they agreed that we might be able to do this with the appropriate training they also said that we would not be able to receive training until well into the new year, by this time we will have moved on from running these types of course and it will no longer really be an issue. They also made it clear that we would not be allowed to take part in any of the sea kayaking or ketch sailing courses. They also went further in these meeting by saying that at no point should we be responsible for the group and that they don't want us working without direct supervision at any point. It's ok for the group to be left unsupervised during free time but it's not ok for us to run games with the group on our own. It is also one of our responsibilities to do night time supervision for up to 64 kids. So we can be responsible for 64 screaming kids for a whole night but can't be responsible for our own group of 12 at any point during the day. If anything this meeting seemed to make the situation worse.

The other thing discussed the reasons for us receiving no training. Lars said that it was our fault we received no training because we didn't have our visas on time and that he had scheduled us to do training the week after we arrived but because we didn't have visas we couldn't do it. He also said that the training department is too busy to give us training now and that we wont be able to receive it until next year. To be honest I think if OB wasn't so bureaucratic about it's training they might have been able to get another member of staff to run through the things we might need to do on course and at least have given us some idea of what to expect rather than just throwing us in at the deep end. He seemed pretty merciless in blaming us for this problem despite the fact that it was OB who didn't apply for our visas until after our arrival.

It seems it's not only Sean and I having a hard time at OBHK. The other international staff that arrived at the same time as us are also feeling pretty terrible about their time here. The whole organisation seems unable to satisfy the staff and address the problems they are having. From the constant logistical cock ups on course to the terrible lack of communication from the middle management the whole place seems to be driving otherwise calm and professional outdoor instructors to the end of their wits. Every week since I have arrived the end of course staff debrief has been filled with complaints and feedback from the international staff and so far none of these complaints seem to have been addressed. The same problems still seem to be happening week after week. At this weeks debrief nothing was said, the staff just don't care any more and are simply counting down the days until they can leave. The course this week has been pretty shoddy to say the least. We are currently on our third week straight without a day off, and last week we worked 100 hours. The staff were like zombies, and the general atmosphere around the centre was at an all time low.

Outward Bounds policies on all aspects of staff life seem to leave everyone with something to complain about. Currently 12 staff are living a very cramped and rat infested part of the the centre and meanwhile there are 2 large comfortable rooms unoccupied in my flat. An ex Alaskan sea kayak expedition leader has been told that he is not qualified enough to use a sea kayak at OBHK. The whole place doesn't seem to value staff morale particularly high in it's agenda. I gathered from one of the notices in the staff room that one of the goals for this year is to increase staff retention, but I find it hard to believe that any of the new batch of staff are going to be willing to stay after the way they have been treated here. You might be thinking this is all a little irrelevant to my situation, but it's true that this place works as a team. And when general team moral is as low as it is, it's hard to see it differently. This is not a happy place to work. Every day becomes a mission. For two months now we have been struggling through trying to find a light at the end of the tunnel and trying every day to find a reason get up and go back to work.

I do truly love Hong Kong, it is an amazing city and I really would love to stay here for the rest of the year. But OBHK is doing my head in, and I have decided I am going to leave and return to the UK.

This was meant to be an enjoyable year for me. So far it has just been one disappointment after another. The work is not at all satisfying or enjoyable. I have virtually no responsibility and no prospect of job development throughout the year. And I don't feel like I am really benefiting anyone here. So far we have only been teaching ultra rich kids, and from what I have been told we wont be involved in the few courses they run for disadvantaged kids later in the year.

I have gone from the joy of working at an organisation that respected me to the reality of working at an organisation where I feel like little more than a slave. My confidence has been shattered, and now I feel as if I have wasted my year my time and my money. This is one of the most important years of my life and I refuse to waste it being run into the ground by an organisation that has so far only wasted my time and money and made me feel like a complete idiot in the process. It is clear that Project Trust have no solutions to the problem and are more interested in preserving the “special relationship” they have with OBHK than our wellbeing. Quite frankly I couldn't care less if Project Trust volunteers have been coming here for forty years. This place has changed. PT keep telling us what a “world renowned” organisation this is, well I think if it continues as it is, this place will earn a world wide reputation as somewhere to avoid!

The only way I can regain control of this year and make it a positive experience is by coming home and choosing something better to do. I am sad that it has come to this, but I am broken. I am at the end of my patience and have nothing more to give to this. I am both physically and mentally exhausted. I have no more patience for the arguments and false promises that both PT and OB keep giving us. My decision is final. I am leaving.

I feel as if PT have failed us, and as if I have failed myself. I was stupid to trust this organisation with my money and time without actually entering into a written contract with them. They don't really guarantee to provide anything for us and don't seem to have much of a concern that they have screwed us over. Throughout all their bickering with OB they seem to have forgotten that we are still out here, and it is us that are suffering. I think they feel that as they are a charity they can't make quick and decisive decisions and that they have to consider everything for weeks at a time before acting on it. I don't think this policy is really compatible with having people oversees in situations like ours.

A good friend of mine is currently accepted to go oversees with Project Trust and I don't really know what to say to her. I think PT does still have a pretty good track record with volunteers. In fact, almost everyone else I know seems to be having a good time. But it only takes one failure to ruin someones gap year and make me feel as I do now.

Over these last 3 months I have learned so much about myself and so much about this amazing country. I am so much more patient now, and I do have a much greater appreciation of how to look after myself. I do feel as though I have truly gained my independence and I will take that with me wherever I choose to spend the rest of my year. I will choose to remember these times for all the fun we had. All the fantastic new friends we met. And for this amazing city, I will certainly have to return here at some point and might even choose to live here in later life. But at the moment the bad stuff is still looming over us, and I just want to get away from here as fast as possible.

I hope all those who gave me money and have followed my story out here with interest understand why I am returning. And although i'm sure there will be those who disagree it is not them who have to live here and feel the way I do. I intend to return as soon as possible and start job hunting. I would like to head to the Alps and do a ski season there and I may have an interview in a few weeks regarding a job there.






Thursday, 21 October 2010

Typhoon Update

The Typhoon has changed course slightly and will now hit about 200km east of Hong Kong. We will still get some pretty strong winds, around 70-80knots and some torrential rain. I think though that we will escape all but minor damage, and all communications should be ok. 



It was on the news today that 200,000 people have be left homeless in the Philippines from Typhoon Megi.  When it reaches land over the next few days in China it is likely to cause some serious damage and flooding, and will probably reach the news in the UK. It seems though that Hong Kong is to be spared the full force of the biggest tropical cyclone (the generic term for hurricanes and typhoons) of the year.

There still seems to be a bit of panic in Hong Kong, the general public aren't always watching the forecasts too carefully and rely on the government warnings instead. Supposedly over the last few days Billions of dollars have been spent on insurance, and every window is now covered with masking tape. The school that was in for course this week was pulled out in a hurry after the parents saw the forecast, and most people wont be going to work tomorrow or over the weekend. (the "weekend" doesn't mean much here)

I'll let you know how it goes.

Monday, 18 October 2010

SUPERTYPHOON!!

If you've been watching the news recently you may have heard about Supertyphoon Megi. It's a category 5 Supertyphoon that has just passed over the Philippines. It's not yet clear how bad the damage has been in the Philippines, but what we do know is that it's forecast to turn towards Hong Kong and reach land on Saturday.





















































































These tracks show all the different forecasts. This Typhoon is the same strength as Hurricane Katrina was when it hit New Orleans, and we have been told to expect wind speeds not less that 155knots and torrential rain. 


dvor-nh15W.GIF (550×400)




This image shows the size of the typhoon, we are expecting that first rain band to hit us tomorrow. Also you can see the typhoon has a central eye.


It is likely that if we get a direct hit there will be extensive damage to buildings and anything outside. We have been told we may be without water or electricity for up to a week. Outward Bound expects to lose all of it's boats in the event of a direct hit, including The Spirit. 


At the moment however there is still no Typhoon warning in Hong Kong. The Typhoon warning system only starts when a Typhoon is within a certain distance from the city. Once it's out there will no doubt be general panic amongst the population. Everything in Hong Kong will shut and the city will ground to a halt. 


I think there is already a bit of a mounting tension, certainly amongst the staff here at OBHK. Hong Kong hasn't had a direct hit for a number of years, and not of this strength for many decades. Everyone here knows what happened in New Orleans. Hong Kong should not flood like New Orleans but the strength of wind and the size of the storm surge could be as big if not bigger. 


When it does reach land it will probably be on the news in the UK. I'll also put up a post later in the week once we know where it's going. If it does hit, just be aware I may not have any form of communication for a while.


Of course forecasts aren't always accurate, so it might just die away or miss us completely. 







Thursday, 14 October 2010

"OH MY GAAAWWWWDDDD!!!!!"

So as I mentioned in my last post our first course was helping on a five day hiking course with a group of 13-14 year olds from a Hong Kong international school. The course had already been out for 2 days when we met them, so fortunately they had already been broken in to the realities of an Outward Bound course. The school the kids had come from was one of the best international schools in Hong Kong, and the kids were seriously rich. Supposedly with this group last year two armed bodyguards accompanied one of the kids throughout the entire course. Fortunately we didn't get any bodyguards this time.


The course involved the kids spending 5 days out in the wilds of Sai Kung country park, walking from camp to camp with all the food they would need for the week, and the tents. And as the week progressed they became responsible for all the navigation and team decisions as well. So at the start of the week the instructor takes a leading role in the group, but by the time we got there we were just checking they didn't kill themselves. 


The trails throughout the park are sometimes quite rough and overgrown and usually very steep! So for kids who have never walked on anything but concrete, never walked up a hill or stairs, and never had to walk more than from the door of their chauffeur driven Merc to the lobby of their luxury apartment block this was like climbing Everest. Every time they saw even the smallest hill to climb, or any sort of animal on the road they would scream "OH MY GAAAAWWWWDDD". They all have ridiculous American accents, and well with the large numbers of hills and animals you tend to find in the wild my ears were bleeding after a few hours. Most of the kids are pretty fit, many play a lot of sports when their not studying Shakespeare or practicing the violin or brushing their pony. So it's not a lack of fitness that makes them so slow, it's just that most of them have never left the city. Some of them don't even realise a place like this exists just a couple more stops along the subway from the city. 




To them, we are almost gods. Just because we can walk up what to us seems just a gravelly hill (it took them half an hour to get down this one). I think they also found it a bit odd being instructed by a Scotsman and Englishman and a Finnish woman. I reckon they now think all Scottish, English and Finnish people are crazy lunatics who live in the hills and hunt animals.

All in all the kids may be very academically smart, but they are thick as mince at everything else. They struggle to walk up hills, and actually physically can't walk down them (instead they just sit on their bums and slide), they just seem to have no independence and no idea how to do anything for themselves. I thought I was bad not being able to iron or cook without some catastrophe, but at least I can open a tin and walk downhill!

The final challenge for the kids involved sleeping under a makeshift shelter on a desert island thats about 5m wide in the middle of Port Shelter and then making a raft and paddling it back at 6 in the morning. Another instructor took over from Sean and I at this point as supposedly we're not qualified enough to go anywhere near water.... Maybe just as well though, I've got  a feeling there may have been a few more "OH MY GAAAWWWWWDDDD"S when they saw the island!


I think the kids do get a lot out of the course, and hopefully learn some life skills. Even though I think many of them don't really enjoy it, and see it more like torture than education, they might look back upon it in later life and be glad they did it. Most of them will never have to open a tin or walk up a hill or do anything for themselves ever again. But maybe they can at least know the hard work their servants have to go through just to bring them a meal or wash their clothes. If these kids knew just how lucky they are they might not have moaned so much about having to put up a tent or open a tin. Many will never have to work, they're parents are rich enough to fund them for life, and for those who do work there will be no job interview and no grumpy boss to keep them in line, they will inherit their parents empire and be the boss from day one. Obviously I can't talk about specific kids or mention anything personal about them, but trust me, YOU will have bought products from some of their parents companies and some are from billionaire families.They're not embarrassed about their wealth. I think in the UK they would be a little more modest and certainly wouldn't be boasting about how many billions "daddy" made last year. But they are the next leaders of the commercial world, and many of us mere mortals will be employed by them. It feels good, even if it's just for a week to be the one they look up to, the one they consider superior.

Next week is the same sort of idea, but with younger kids. It should be a little less intense, and we certainly wont be marooning them on an island.










Tuesday, 12 October 2010

A $1000000 Sail

 Last weekend marked the Hebe Haven Yacht Club 24hr Charity Dinghy race. Every year outward bound enter a team into the event, and this year we were asked to come along and sail a few shifts in the race. So I was expecting a pokey wee event with a few diehard sailing teams out of a small club. Turns out this is a huge event in Hong Kong. 44 teams were signed up, and the club dinghy park was taken over by hundreds of stalls and food tents. There was a crane so that the TV crews could get good shots for the news, tv display boards showing live results from the race. And the teams were not made up of diehards. Some of the competitors were ex Americas Cup crew members, and even the 13 year old kids were pro! And the real stars of the show were the two guys who each sailed the full 24hrs on their own in Picos! The event raises over $1000000 every year! As I was the most experienced sailor in the team I was asked to helm the start. It was pretty intense, the startline was right next to the pontoons which were lined with hundreds of spectators and a couple of TV camera crews. And there was a commentator blasting out over the whole harbour.



The wind was, as we say in the UK, light and shite. And thats an understatement. It would shift 90 degrees every 30 seconds or so and was a rubbish 2 - 0 mph. As this seems to be the usual wind conditions in Hong Kong, the locals got stuck straight in and started raking in the laps. Anyhoo I managed to wrestle the dodgy old 420 round the course a few times in my first 3 hours, and by the time I managed to swap with someone we were in a not too shabby 23rd out of 44.

Sean and I were asked to come back to sail from 4 - 6am, so we did the sensible thing, and headed to the boozer. Unfortunately by the time I got back we somehow seemed to have dropped to 40th.....  Anyhoo, sailing in the dark was amazing! It was quite hard to tell whether or not you were moving, but eventually the marks got closer.  After our middle of the night sail, and pub trip, I was ready just to crash back at the flat, so I missed the end of the race. But the whole thing was pretty amazing. There was a really good atmosphere over the whole club, and the event was brilliantly organised and best of all was great fun and raised a tonne of money. I've never seen anything like it in the UK. It certainly seems to be an incredibly successful event, and I'd love to see someone try and do something like it in Scotland.

There's not too much else to report I'm afraid. We're going out on our first expedition tomorrow. A two day camping course with an international school from Hong Kong. I'll let you know how it goes.

Wednesday, 6 October 2010

The New Sin City

Visas have arrived!! :-)

So yesterday we headed to the Portugese colony of Macau an hours jetfoil from Hong Kong. Unfortunately it was a really rainy miserable (albeit 25 degrees) day so I couldn't really get many photos. On first inspection I would say the place is completely insane! I thought Hong Kong was crazy, but this place really is bonkers. It's like going to Portugal, the streets are cobbled and there are loads of colonial European style buildings. And well the general organisation of the place is a little more European than Hong Kong. The traffic doesn't seem to follow any rules (much like France ;-) ) and there are millions of mopeds! Every other street is lined with thousands and thousands of parked mopeds, and on the street they swarm through the traffic without a care for the law or their safety. Obviously all the signs are in Cantonese and everyone is Chinese. So the place is just really confusing, it feels like Portugal but it's Chinese.

We took a bus from the Jetfoil terminal to the centre of town. Well thats where we thought the bus was going. I think I could have navigated better than the driver I swear we went down the same street twice! On arrival in the central square (which looks a lot like that famous one in Venice... whatever its called) we realised it was pouring down with rain, we had left our umbrellas at home, and well it just got a little intense on the streets. It was sooooo busy, like Princes street on a busy saturday before Christmas but on every street! So we decided to head to one of the casinos.

The other side of Macau is the gambling. Macau is the most popular gambling destination in the world and has the biggest casino in the world. It's not very well known in the west, but it's much bigger than Vegas, and no less spectacular.


This is the Grand Lisboa, the second biggest. The biggest, The Venetian, has 3 full sized canals inside it with real life gondoliers for hire! It was a half hour bus journey away on another island, so we settled for the MGM Grand, no cameras inside...sorry.

It was a bit odd to be honest. You really do get lost inside these places. I thought we had been in for an hour maybe, but turned out to be three. I think I started with beginners luck on the slot machines and roulette. I was at one point $300 up. But as is the way with these things I lost it all again in no time. All the crazy chinese tables were crowded with screaming gamblers. This is the town of high stakes, on the cheap tables the minimum bet was $200, but on most was more like $1000. Some of the people looked like they had been in there for days, and some certainly had been making use of the free drinks a little too much. I'm sure some of these people practically live in the casino and just gamble all day to escape their real lives. It really is a hideous place, but god it's addictive.  I think we're going to head back at some point and maybe see the Venetian.

Well just before catching the jetfoil back to HK we stopped for dinner. It was one of these crazy Cantonese places where you get presented a menu in Cantonese and you tick what you want. So we just had to tick and hope for the best. I got chicken, and some egg and some onion or something, it was really nice, and Sean managed to get something edible also.

The Jetfoil was pretty awesome actually. They're huge hydrofoiling ferries that fly at 40 knots between HK and Macau every 15 mins. They are made by Boeing, and are powered by two 800 horsepower jet engines! I think Calmac should get some. ;-)



The only ferry I've been on where they ask you to wear a seatbelt!

Tomorrow we have to go back to Wan Chai to get our Hong Kong ID cards, and then we will officially be temporary workers! I'll probably do another post next week once we have begun work, I believe we are being put on support first. Which means we'll be helping with some of the land based expeditions out hiking for a few days at a time in the New Territories.

Ciao for now.

Saturday, 25 September 2010

Where West meets East

Well after a bit of a long week sitting around praying for news on our visas Sini our new Finnish flatmate dragged us out to Mong Kok to try and sort out the wi-fi in the flat. So we took the "Mong Kok Bullet" from Sai Kung which turned out to be quite an experience. I was, (as I'm sure you'll understand) quite exited by the name.  On reflection I think it's maybe a bit of an ironic title, nevertheless it was a good laugh. It's a wee 16 seater minibus, but unlike all the other minbuses in Hong Kong the drivers on the Mong Kok Bullet all wear aviator sunglasses and leather driving gloves. And to keep the Top Gun theme running they drive like lunatics also. Until this I had never seen a minibus overtake a Porsche 911, or heard an engine with quite the same on the edge of exploding sound. For those of you that don't know Mong Kok is the most densely populated area in the world, with 130,000 people per square kilometre. And well having been there, I can believe it. It's crazy! Step out the MTR and you are immediately swept away by the swarm of people. Everyone is in a rush and seems to know exactly where they are going.


Every building and down every dark alleyway and on every street corner someone is selling something. What would you like?  The huge electronics stores, clothes shops of every variety, dodgy jewelers, and even more dodgy designer handbags, a fake rolex, a tailored suit, a kayak, some thermal socks, a cuban cigar, a fridge. Well this is your place. To be honest though all we wanted to do was get someone to come and fix our wi-fi, and after battling through the armies of raging shoppers the man in the shop told us to phone up the customer helpline. At that point all I wanted to do was press the eject button and get out of the claustrophobic sweatbox that is Mong Kok. But for over a million people this is home, and I can't imagine it. Half an hour was enough for me. 

Today, back to the city. But this time to Central. If you've seen a photo of Hong Kong it's probably of the skyline of central. The skyscrapers are amazing and well there's certainly no shortage of them. Hong Kong is the tallest city in the world, and it has 3 of the worlds 10 tallest buildings. 


Although not particularly tall The Bank of China Tower is the most striking of all the buildings with the chopsticks on the roof and the mirrored windows. Off to the right of this photo is the HSBC headquarters, unfortunately I couldn't get a photo of it but the centre of the building is one huge atrium that goes all the way up and criss crossing the atrium are hundreds of escalators. The building holds records for having the most escalators in one building and for having the longest unsupported escalator in the world. So in case you hadn't gathered Hong Kong holds a few records! They do seem to be a bit of a record hunting group of people. I was reading an article in the South China Morning Post (yes I did buy it) outraged that Hong Kong was only 5th in the world for quality of life, maybe they'll have that one sewn up by the time I leave.

Anyhoo, I ventured from Central up the now infamous Central/Mid-Levels escalator to Soho. I think it's a little different from the London Soho. It means South of Hollywood Road and it's one of the most affluent areas of the city. It's also a little odd. This is where my title came from. Walking through Soho is like a cross between upper class London and what the rest of us would think of as China. Rich English and Filipeno wives crowd designer boutiques and trendy coffee shops waiting for their chauffeurs to come take them to the next shop. On the street though the chinese  delivery boys and slightly lost tourists (aka me) dodge the constant stream of Mercs and Rolls Royces. Above the bamboo scaffolders are still climbing to scary heights, and there is still a constant stream of bin rakers pushing their rusty trollies around looking for aluminium cans they can sell for pennies at the scrap merchants. Soho really is the contradiction to top them all.  At times Hong Kong seems so Chinese but Soho seems for the rich to be the answer to this, they can hide away in their champagne bars and pretend they're in Monaco or.... wherever else rich people go.





 In Hong Kong there is obviously a huge divide between the rich and poor, probably more so than in most other countries in the world. But never have I seen rich and poor so close together, or so accepting of each other. The difference is, here the poor are employed by the rich: anyone who is anyone has at least a chauffeur, a maid, a gardener, a nanny and a Filipino wife, and well the poor respect the rich because they pay their wages. I suppose this is part of the new system, but hardly anyone in Hong Kong is unemployed. There is a job for everyone, and if there's not then one is created. A new skyscraper is built or a new tunnel dug and the city continues to expand. Hong Kong's development is in the opinions of many, spiralling out of control. Its only a matter of time before the star ferry will no longer be needed as the island will cease to be an island. Even now more land is being reclaimed for another huge building.




Central is obviously stunning to look at, and for a wannabe civil engineer about the best place in the world. However, Chinese or cultural it is not. And to top off my cultural tour of Central I went for a Macdonald's, yum. Actually not yum it's really discusting i'm never going to have one again. Oh and just in case you were worried about my health...





Good to see they've got it covered.

So to round up a rather long and rambling post, as I sit here listening to the Pulp Fiction Soundtrack and tucking into a fresh tube of Pringles. It's sometimes quite hard to believe im in China, moving just a mile or two through the city going from China to Monaco is quite strange, but I suppose thats Hong Kong... Strange.

So, we're still waiting for visas! How long can it take? And yes it's still hot.... Very Hot!

What have you got to look forward to soon. Well we need to go see the harbour light show, which may or may not produce some awsome photos. Also when we do eventually get our visas we have to leave the country and return to validate them (don't ask me...). So we're going to the Portugese colony Macau. There they have the biggest casino in the world and the biggest bungee jump in the world. It could be quite a trip!

See you soon.

Kenneth

Thursday, 16 September 2010

Paradise and Pizza

I should start by saying I have now caught up with my sleep! YAY! This has certainly made the last few days a bit easier and we've had an amazing few days exploring the country. Firstly we decided to go and see the Tian Tan (Titan) Buddha on Lantau Island at the other end of Hong Kong.


It's 30m tall and weighs almost 300 tonnes. To be honest though it's just a bit of a tourist trap. It was only built in the 90's and although it's impressive I can't imagine it's really very important to Buddhists. What was amazing though was Lantau Peak sometimes known as Sunset Peak, a fairly big mountain that towers over the statue.


It's only 923m tall, so not incredibly high but it is really really steep. So steep that the "trail" up is more of a staircase than a trail. Also we now know that midday was not the best time to start climbing on a clear sunny day. Several breaks and a couple of bottles of water later we eventually made it to the top. The eagle eyed amongst you may have noticed that we didn't start from sea level and that the Buddha is actually half way up the mountain. Well, to be honest it was a really hard climb and well boo hoo. Anyhoo the view from the top was amazing!


Well after the painful walk down and the awful rush hour MTR ride home we sat down for a slice of the best pizza in the world "Paisano's" in Sai Kung! Well earned I think.

So how could we follow the mountain adventure? Well I think we did quite well. We hired a couple of Kayaks from the beach club and paddled out into what looked like Ha Long Bay or whatever it's called off James Bond. It was a stunning day, and despite an entire bottle of suncream being used we still got burnt. We found a deserted beach on a tiny island and stopped for lunch.


It really was like being in the Carribean or some other tropical paradise, the water was so warm and well obviously the sun was a little too warm. No wonder the Hongkongers never go on holiday or leave the country, with all this only a short train ride from the city centre it really must be an amazing place to live. The other thing is, on weekdays all these places are deserted because everyone is working. I don't think we'll ever bother doing this sort of thing at the weekend because it seems half the city comes out to the country park to do something. Also the prices seem to skyrocket at the weekend, for the kayak hire it would have been almost 3 times as much at the weekend.

In other news, we are still waiting for visas. It's only been 18 days now and on average takes 30 so still a bit of waiting to be done :-(  But on a good note we are moving to our permanent flat today out of this mice infested one. I'll let you know how the new flat is at some point. Anyhoo I better get packing.

Bye xxx

Tuesday, 7 September 2010

A city of contradictions

Well the last few days have been a bit of a struggle. I can't sleep at all at night but seem to crash about 8 in the morning and sleep through till 2 in the afternoon. Once I get this jet lag cracked everything should be a little easier. At the moment we are still waiting for our visas to arrive, so for the next two or three weeks we're effectively on holiday. They have agreed that my year doesn't start till I get my visa though so looks like I'm getting an extra month for free :-).


As mentioned, "The Spirit of Outward Bound". The skipper Nigel could be recieving a few beers as a bribe to take us out me thinks. 

Anyhoo, your probably wondering what the title of this post was all about.... 

Over the last however many days it's been I've begun to notice and understand a little more about this city, and the way it works. Hongkongers pride themselves on running the most efficient city in the world, and to a certain extent they should be proud. The transport system here is amazing, it runs like clockwork, they polish it every night so it's squeaky clean and shining every morning and it's mega cheap! To get into the city costs me $15 (about 1pound 30) And this crazy attitude to public service continues throughout everything, landline phone calls in the whole of Hong Kong are free for everyone, and mobile calls are very cheap, like 2p a minute! And on the sailing front, all the watersports centres here are government run, they're open 7 days a week and run courses in everything, it's based on the RYA scheme so you can do pretty much whatever you want, the best bit is membership is only $100 a year (7 pounds 90) and that covers everything! It's hard to believe that in a country with on average 5% income tax and no VAT that they can do all this.

Well, whats the catch? If you actually want to buy a house here you have to be loaded! But from my point of view there are still a few issues. They seem to have completely ruined the whole amazingness of this sailing centre by forcing everyone through  pages and pages of paperwork every time they want to do anything. So if I wanted to go down to the centre and hire a boat, (which FYI i'm not allowed to do as supposedly an RYA dinghy instructor isn't good enough to hire a boat there!) I would have to book 3 months in advance and tell them what my mum's first pet was called and any other irrelevant bit of information they want. What A Fiasco! 

This is just one example of Hong Kong's crippling bureaucracy. Everything needs to be approved by someone,  you must be qualified to do anything (even to jump off the pier!) and if you want to change a lightbulb..... "No no no no, you'll need planning permission for that". So when Hongkongers claim that they are efficient, i'm afraid i'd have to disagree. This is for sure the least efficient place i've ever seen.Ok at home things get done badly, but at least they get done. Hong Kong might have a shiny fast MTR but if you want to get anything done here you better be patient. 

I've only been here a week or something so I don't want to draw too many conclusions from what I've seen, these are just my observations and later in the year I might begin to understand a little more about why it's like this. 

And well as a final comment: For the most health and safety obsessed culture I've ever seen (yes I thought the UK was bad) how come they allow this?



Ok, well plans for the next few days: We're going to try and go see the horse racing at Happy Valley tomorrow night, and theres maybe a trip to ocean park as well. I'll let you know how it goes.

If anyone fancies writing me a letter heres my new address:

Kenneth Laing,
Outward Bound Hong Kong,
Tai Mong Tsai Road,
Sai Kung,
New Territories,
Hong Kong,

Night night everyone.

Kenneth

xxx


Friday, 3 September 2010

Heat, Crowds and Noodles

Well after a pretty uneventful 16 hour flight we arrived in Hong Kong, and my god it was hot! 35 degrees and almost 100% humidity and it was properly sunny (which it turns out doesn't happen too often). Anyhoo we got straight into the van and headed through the city to our new  home.





















The centre is in the New Territories of Hong Kong, so it's not actually in the city. Instead it's in the lush and hilly Sai Kung country park. The centre runs a lot of land based courses and kayaking, but the best thing is the   70ft ex BT Global Challenge yacht moored out the front! :-)

For our first meal in Hong Kong our host took us out for a Thai..... Not quite what I was expecting, but when it arrived it was the nicest meal I have ever eaten. The flavours were explosive! There were about 10 different dishes for us to try and each one was stunning! It only cost about $15 for a main as well!

Despite the distance it only took us an hour to get into central, the MTR was pretty amazing and it only cost us 2 pounds. Well heading up the peak to get a first view over the city seemed like a good idea at the time. This was the view.....



Pretty amazing, but I think we'll try and go back up on a clear day to get the full view. Well it wasn't the last blunder of the day either we thought we'd try and walk down to the mid levels escalator. Rather than building a tram or another subway line they thought they'd just build a huge escalator to go up to the flats in the foreground. Well it turns out the escalator only goes down in the morning, and comes back up for the rest of the day. So we had to walk all the way down to the city in the heat and humidity. Wat A Fiasco!


Once we actually got down the city looked pretty amazing, as you'd guess it's very very busy but its so different from Edinburgh or London. For a start there's no litter, and the other thing I really noticed is the air quality is much better , there's no smoky buses, and certainly far fewer lines of traffic than in Edinburgh. The whole city runs like clockwork, the Chinese are very impatient but it's fine because they never have to wait for anything.

Last night we headed into Wan Chai, Hong Kong's famous rowdy party district, for my 18th. I decided it best not to take the camera for obvious reasons ;-) but the city really does look stunning at night. Even for a Thursday night the place was buzzing and most places were open all through the night. Every bar we went into was full of rich expats, and as I was wearing my kilt I certainly got a lot of attention. Best bit was we only had to buy 2 drinks for ourselves for the whole night :-) Just as well to be honest with a pint costing $60! (thats 6 pounds!)  It's amazing, wherever you go, you always meet another crazy Scotsman! This one was a rich architect called Angus, he saw me passing in my kilt and dragged us into his local and him and his Thai bride ;-)  bought us a lot of drinks. All in all a pretty amazing 18th! :-)

Today.. well it was a long lie in ;-) and well jet lag has truly destroyed my body clock, I really have no concept of what time it is and I'm really struggling to sleep at night. Hopefully I'll get there over the next few days. Anyhoo the one amazing thing we saw today was a local seafood restaurant. This was the front....


We decided not to, and instead went for a Chinese with the locals. It was very nice and only cost $16 for a main, but they do huge portions here and I do feel quite guilty when I can only manage half the plate. It rained like crazy today, which was pretty good cos it's much cooler now and for the first time since I arrived we can sit outside without sweating! Might even turn off the air con in the room tonight.... maybe not tho ;-) it is still 25.

Tomorrow we're going to head into Mong Kok the famous shopping district, and there should be lots of photos.

Night.

Kenneth

Sunday, 29 August 2010

Goodbye

Well, I'm about to leave. I hope I've managed to say goodbye to everyone, but no doubt I've missed someone out, don't worry "it's only a year", to me it seems like quite a long time 31556926 seconds, hmm I'm sure it will fly. Anyhoo don't worry i'm not going to post every minute of my trip and recount every boring fiasco and pointless encounter, but rest assured when I fall down a well or eat snake or learn tai chi I'll let you know about it.

To everyone I've left behind have a fantastic year, I'll post my address on this at some point so you can send me letters. Or if your feeling lazy send me an email.

See you soon,

Kenneth